Usui Pass Results

This is a follow-up to the last post where I made AWD, FWD, and RWD variants of the NA Miata (a little more power in all cases). Here are the best times I got after running the course a few times each.

  • AWD 3:59.183
  • RWD 4:00.270
  • FWD 4:01.932

Before getting completely subjective, let’s bring in one more data point. The normal Miata on slightly stickier tires is faster than any of these by a couple seconds. To be specific, the DX_REF for SV tires (used in the tests above) is 1.22. The DX_REF for ST tires (used in the normal Miata) is 1.26. In other words. a Miata with 130 hp and 1.26 tires is faster than an AWD Miata with 182 hp and 1.22 tires.

Feelings

Let’s talk about how each car felt to drive. AWD was least fun. Acceleration requires zero nuance. You just step on the gas and the car hooks up. There is no threat of oversteer on corner exits (like RWD) and the front tires are never searching for traction (like FWD). I found myself driving more point-n-shoot than normal simply because I knew I could be hard on the throttle. One word summary: boring.

Driving RWD fast is a nerve-wracking balancing act. Every corner entry and exit is an opportunity to spin. On a dangerous course like Usui Pass, you have drive tidy and not let the car wander around too much. I definitely had to focus more, but the effort felt worth it. One word summary: rewarding.

Driving hard feels good because trusting your skills feels good. I can drive FWD much harder than RWD. My tires did more slipping in FWD than AWD or RWD. The main danger was going into corners too hot, thinking I could always bail myself out later. One word summary: entertaining.

Unfair Test

While FWD lost the speed test, the test conditions were really unfair. AWD and RWD are heavier, more expensive, and have greater power losses comared to FWD. I didn’t even bother setting tire pressures optimally. I forgot to record audio, so I’m not even posting the video publicly, but if you want to see a silent movie, go ahead and click.

Karelia Check

I did a quick check at the Karelia Cross to see if the results held up on dirt. AWD (1:00.9) was fastest by a good margin. I only did a few laps and it honestly felt like cheating. Unlike tarmac, I wouldn’t call it “boring” but rather “wow”. RWD (1:02.2) was faster than FWD (1:02.5) by a small margin. You might be surprised that RWD was faster than FWD, but I’ve found this to be the case in the past. FWD is faster than RWD when the driver/car/track combination exposes the drivers lack of skill or confidence. I’ve driven Karelia in the Miata too often to be surprised.

AWD, FWD, RWD at Usui Pass

Sometime last year I discovered that Initial D really appealed to me. That said, I didn’t get me very interested in togue. My problem with togue is that it glorifies illegal racing on public roads, and I’m 100% against that.

One of the students here is really into Initial D, and I thought that it would be fun to do time trials in that setting. So we started downloading various Initial D locations and cars. The first location we tried was Usui Pass. This is an incredibly twisty road with a huge variety of corners. None of the straights are very long. It’s a great test of driver and machine. I absolutely love it. It also happens to be the location for my favorite Initial D race, the one with the two women driving the Sileighty.

Initial D features a lot of great cars like the AE86, FC and FD RX7, Lancer Evo, Civic Si, WRX, GTR, S2000, etc.  There’s a good mix of RWD, FWD, and AWD. Of course, this got me wondering “what’s best for togue?” So that’s what I’m going to test this weekend.

As usual, the test platform starts with the NA Miata. But I’ve upped the power by 40%. One reason for the power increase is that the base Miata is just a little too mild. I want to be able to break traction on both ends so that the differences among the layouts is more pronounced. In keeping with that theme, I am going to drive on the SV tires that have low grip. More power plus less grip means more fun. Also, I feel like the kids in Initial D probably didn’t have a huge amount of money for sticky tires, so it makes sense to drive on harder tires.

In the real world, one would probably make changes to suspension and alignment to take advantage of the characteristics of each platform. In addition, FWD would be the lightest and have the least power loss. Also, AWD would be the heaviest and have the most power loss. But in this test, I’m keeping everything as constant as possible and only changing the absolute minimum.

  • RWD
    • 51.5 weight distribution (default)
    • 0.67 front brake bias (default)
  •  FWD
    • 62/38 weight distribution
    •  0.74 front brake bias
  • AWD
    • 60/40 weight distribution
    • 0.74 front brake bias
    • AWD settings borrowed from Audi S1

The reason the AWD is at 60/40 is because this splits the difference between a WRX and Evo. To be perfectly honest, my understanding of how AC models AWD is poor. There are two different types of AWD, and the settings of the various vehicles I examined were very different. I chose to borrow the Audi S1 because the settings were the simplest. It appears to be very front-biased, with the rear wheels adding power when the front slips. In testing, it seems to work very well. You can exit corners fast with no drama from either end.

I will report back on which layout is:

  • Fastest
  • Safest
  • Most fun

Driver Performance System 0.1

One of my many hobbies is locksport, which is simply picking locks for fun. I’m not very good at it. As a lockpicker, I’m an ORANGE BELT.

How the hell do you get an orange belt in lockpicking? It turns out that there’s a community called “Lockpickers United” (LPU), that has created a belt system much like you would see in martial arts. I’m an orange belt because someone from LPU examined my video evidence and awarded me the belt.

To rank sim racers who come to the HPD-LAB, I’ve been using a system that separates drivers into 9 different colors. My system is based on 1 second intervals in the NA Miata at Brands Indy in Assetto Corsa. I would prefer if the system was portable to different cars, tracks, and simulators. Also, 1 second intervals are a little too wide for a lap time of around 1 minute.

With inspiration from LPU and NTRP/ITN (tennis ranking), I propose the Driver Performance System (DPS). This has 9 colored belts with the same order as LPU at conveniently remembered breakdowns (1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 10, 15). Your DPS is largely determined by comparing your best lap to a delta (reference) lap. There are also level-specific additional criteria (e.g. no automatic transmission). These may be waived in cases of physical disabilities.

  • White Belt – Anyone who drives and records a timed lap is a white belt.
  • Yellow Belt – Lap time less than or equal to 115% delta time.
  • Orange Belt – Lap time less than or equal to 110% delta time. At Orange Belt and above, all laps must be completely clean without running off course or incurring any other infractions.
  • Green Belt – Lap time less than or equal to 105% delta time. At Green Belt and above, you may not use traction or stability control.
  • Blue Belt – Lap time less than or equal to 104% delta time. At Blue Belt and above, you must use a manual transmission (you may use auto-clutch and auto-blip).
  • Purple Belt – Lap time less than or equal to 103% delta time. At Purple Belt and above, you may not use ABS.
  • Brown Belt – Lap time less than or equal to 102% delta time. At Brown Belt and above, you may not use any shifting aids (no auto-clutch, no auto-blip).
  • Red Belt – Lap time less than or equal to 101% delta time. At Red Belt and above, you must shift with a sequential or H-pattern shifter (paddles, buttons, etc. are not allowed).
  • Black – Lap time less than or equal to 100% delta time.

There are several keys to using the DPS.

  1. The delta time must be set under specific conditions that can be replicated exactly by all other participants.
  2. The delta time must be set to a pro level. This is somewhat ill-defined. For my purposes, because I’m not a professional sim racer, I set it to a little faster than my calculated optimal lap on my best day.
  3. The vehicle and simulator must allow one to deactivate traction control, stability control, ABS, and shift aids.
  4. Intentional and unintentional cheating is possible in nearly every simulator. Official assessments must take place under rigorous testing conditions.
    1. Tests must be conducted “live” with the assessor watching the driver the whole time.
    2. Tests must be “continuous”. Any break in observational continuity requires restarting the test from the beginning.
    3. Test data must be recorded and transferred to the assessor immediately following the test without a break in continuity.

Test: AC-BHI-NA

The first official test setting for DPS is the one I have been using. All official assessments have taken place at the HPD-LAB under my direct supervision.

  • Simulator: Assetto Corsa
  • Track: Brands Hatch Indy
  • Vehicle: Mazda Miata NA
    • default
      • tyre compound: Street 90s (SV)
      • tire pressures: 28 psi (all corners)
      • camber: 0 deg front, -1 deg rear
      • toe: 11 front, 19 rear
      • fuel: 24 liters
      • slipstream effect: 1x
    • changes
      • fuel consumption: 0x
      • tire wear: 0x
      • tire blankets: on
      • mechanical damage: 0%
  • Conditions (default):
    • 26°C
    • no wind
    • ideal track

The delta time for the conditions above is currently set a 1:01.50. This provides the following breakdown for DPS levels.

  • Yellow Belt: 1:10.73 or better
  • Orange Belt: 1:07.65 or better
  • Green Belt: 1:04.58 or better
  • Blue Belt: 1:03.96 or better
  • Purple Belt: 1:03.35 or better
  • Brown Belt: 1:02.73 or better
  • Red Belt: 1:02.12 or better
  • Black Belt: 1:01.5 or better

HPD-LAB Assessments

Here’s what the lap times and DPS belts look like at the HPD-LAB. Note that nobody is a Black Belt yet. The black time shown is the delta time. I am currently the only Red Belt (1:02.01) and on any given day, my times are as Brown as they are Red. I don’t record everyone who comes to drive. Some of the really slow people never make it on the list. So the number of Whites is larger than this (I also probably missed some Yellows).

If you take martial arts classes, you generally advance each belt in a couple months. At the higher levels, each belt might take 6 months. Unlike martial arts, drivers can advance through the lower ranks of the DPS very quickly. One might argue that there should be more granularity at the top ranks. In marital arts, this is done with mixed belts such as red/black. This would be easy to implement as 100.5% delta time. There are also levels above black. But honestly, once you reach Black Belt, you’re driving well enough that you don’t need some silly color system to tell you how good you are: you let your competition results speak for you.

If you’re thinking of how these colors would map to NTRP, white is 1.5, yellow is 2.0, orange is 2.5, green is 3.0, blue is 3.5, purple is 4.0, brown is 4.5, red is 5.0, and black is 5.5. NTRP ranks 6.0 and 7.0 are reserved for national and internationally ranked players. Amateur tennis players max out at around 5.0. As a tennis player, I was a 4.0 and maybe even a 4.5. Driving comes to me more naturally than tennis, so as a driver, I’m think in the 4.5-5.0 range, which is why I tuned the DPS times to put me in the Brown-Red range.

One of the things I like about the NTRP is the fine grained detail about each level. For example, phrases like “erratic grip” or “incomplete service motion” are very telling. Each driving level has equivalent characteristics like “over-braking”, “crabbing”, or “snapping off brake pedal”. Maybe I’ll add these details in version 0.2.

Fastest driver revisted

In the last post, I talked about ways to calculate aggregate performance, and also said I was hosting a 2-part time trial competition.

  • Race/Track: Brands Hatch Indy, Russel Alexis Mk. 14 Formula Ford
  • Rally/Dirt: Holjes RX, Chevy Monza SE 500EF

Unfortunately, turnout wasn’t all that great. I guess I should have given more advanced notice. So I’ve decided the contestants can set their time any time during the month of April.

Let’s look at the 3 drivers who have driven so far.

The fastest driver on track, Ryan was the slowest on dirt. And strangely, the fastest driver on dirt, Brett, was the slowest on track. Chinmay placed 2nd each time. If one adds ranks, they all end up with the same score: 4. If one gives out points for placings using current F1 rules, Brett and Ryan get 40 and Chinmay gets 36. However, under Moto GP or Superbike rules, they all tie (40).

If you look at the lap times, Chinmay is closer to the #1 driver than #3 in both events. If you add the lap times, he’s the fastest. If you scale the lap times by how long they are, you get the sum of percentages, which also shows Chinmay in the lead. Summing the Z-scores also results in Chinmay being fastest.

So who is the overall fastest driver? As discussed last time, this is a subjective game. There is no truth. When hosting a game, you have to tell the players the rules ahead of time, which I didn’t do. Today, I would give out 3 trophies to 3 different drivers: #1 race, #1 rally, and “most complete driver”. Who knows what I’ll do in April. I bought 6 mini-trophies so maybe 6 awards.

If you want to measure yourself against my students, it’s easy: use the default setups and default weather. But turn off fuel usage and tire wear so that the lap times are consistent the whole time. I let my students use auto-clutch, auto-blip, and paddle shifters because “kids these days…”

Who is the fastest driver?

This weekend, I’m holding a time trial competition at my office (aka the HPD-LAB). The event features 2 separate time trials. In each time trial, drivers will have 20 minutes to set their fastest lap.

  1. Tarmac – Brands Hatch Indy in a Formula Ford
  2. Rallycross – Holjes RX in a Chevy Monza 500EF (FWD)

While everyone has driven Brands Indy before, most have not driven a Formula Ford. I don’t think anyone has driven Holjes in the Monza. These time trials are therefore as much about adapting quickly as driving quickly.

It’s easy to determine who the fastest driver is in each category. Simply sort by the lap time. But when it comes to the title of overall fastest driver, things get complicated.

Sum of lap times is short-sighted

A simple solution would be to add the two lap times together. This might work okay because in both cases the lap times will be under 1 minute. But as a general methodology, adding lap times is a dumb idea. Consider the problem of finding the fastest runner. Athletes who perform well at 100m do poorly at marathons and vice-versa. As marathons times can be separated by minutes, simply summing marathon and 100m times would mean handing the title over to the fastest marathon runner.

Subjectivity is unavoidable

Imagine driving your car from home to the race track. It’s 100 km and it takes you 1 hour. Your speed is 100 km/hr. On the way back, there’s lots of traffic, and it takes 2 hours. Your return speed is 50 km/hr. What is your average speed? One way to calculate this is to take the average of 100 km/hr and 50 km/hr = 75 km/hr. Another way is to divide the total distance by total time: 200 km / 3 hr = 66.7 km/hr.

Which of these methods provides the correct aggregate speed? If you thought this exercise would end in truth, you’re wrong. There are many ways to calculate centrality, and ultimately you get to choose. You can use the arithmetic mean (75.0), harmonic mean (66.7), geometric mean (70.7), or some other calculation as the final value. Again, you get to choose, and that makes everything we do partially subjective.

Transparency is essential

The stated goal is to find the fastest driver. But this can’t be done without some subjectivity. In cases such as these, one must be transparent about how the calculations are made and how the final results depend on the parameters. That way, other people can replicate and extend your study, which may lead to different conclusions based on the exact same data. So let’s take a look at some common ways to aggregate performance before deciding on the overall winner.

Sum of ranks is not that simple

One way to determine the overall winner is to rank each driver in each event and then sum up the ranks. Like golf, a lower score is better. But even this simple scoring scheme has a few nuances. What happens when multiple drivers end with the exact same lap time? Granted, this is unlikely, but in many testing scenarios (e.g. the 13 best summer tires of 2023), it’s possible for multiple contestants to end with the same score in some category. Let’s say the times are 60, 61, 61, and 62 seconds. Do the drivers in the middle get placed 2nd and the 4th fastest driver gets 3rd? Or 4th? Or do the middle two get 3rd? Although I’ve never seen it done, one could average the ranks for drivers who tie.

  • No gaps after ties: 1, 2, 2, 3
  • Gaps after ties: 1, 2, 2, 4
  • Gap before ties: 1, 3, 3, 4
  • Average tied ranks: 1, 2.5, 2.5, 4

Point systems are common

Many racing organizations give out points for different placings. These are generally non-linear with more points awarded to the faster drivers. Here are a few.

  • Formula 1 historic (early): 8, 6, 4, 3, 2
  • Formula 1 historic (later): 10, 6, 4, 3, 2, 1
  • Formula 1 historic (even later): 10, 8, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1
  • Formula 1 current: 25, 18, 15, 12, 10, 8, 6, 4, 2, 1
  • Moto GP and World Superbike current: 25, 20, 15, 13, 11, 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1

Points are just arbitrarily-weighted ranks. The point system has no basis in truth. Points are the rules of a game. Is the winner at the end of the season the fastest driver? Hard to say. However, it’s easy to say they are the winner of the points scoring game.

One might ask if the goal of a points-scoring system to actually find the fastest driver. Do we want a system that always finds the best driver or do we want a system that sometimes gives worse drivers a chance at winning the overall title? Uncertainty can create excitement.

Measuring performance isn’t that simple

If you’ve ever watched a bicycle race like Tour de France, you know that stages end with a huge number of riders crossing the finish line at the same time because they are part of the peloton (“ball” in French). Handing out vastly different ranks seems like a stupid thing to do when all of the riders have performed the same. So why not measure performance rather than ranking. As discussed earlier, simply summing up time is stupid. The data has to be normalized in some way to make running 100m equivalent to running a marathon.

  1. Single-sided scaling: One way to tackle this problem is to give the fastest driver 100% and then rank everyone else relative to this performance. Continuing the previous example, a driver who completes a lap in 60 seconds gets 100%. The two drivers at 61 get 60/61 or 98.36%, and the driver at 62 gets 96.77%. This doesn’t give much of a “win” to the winning driver does it? Feels wrong.
  2. Double-sided scaling: Another transformation would be to give the top driver 100% and the bottom driver 0% and scale the others in between. This results in 100%, 50%, 50%, 0%. While this certainly spreads out the performance better, it also feels wrong.
  3. Arbitrary transformations: There’s nothing to prevent you or me from coming up with our own transformations. For example, maybe I like single-sided scaling but I want there to be more differences among the placings. I could square the number. This would give points as 1, 96.7, 96.7, 93.7. One could cube instead of square or use logs and exponents. You’re allowed to come up with whatever transformation you want. However, some transformations will feel better than others.

Decathlon scoring

Olympic Decathlon has been around a while and they have changed their scoring system several times. One of their issues is that they want to simultaneously solve two problems that are at odds with each other. (1) they don’t want specialists to win the whole thing (2) they want to reward athletes at the top end for outstanding performance. The decathlon scoring formula is: INT(A(B — P)C). Here, B is some kind of baseline expectation and P is the performance of the athlete. In some events this is P – B (depending on if lower or higher is better). A and C represent scaling factors to balance points between different events.

There’s nothing wrong with decathlon scoring. It’s the way they play their game. The formula is highly tuned for their specific activity.

Z-scores make sense

One somewhat principled way of measuring and combining performances is with Z-scores. You’re probably familiar with means and standard deviations. The mean, or average, is also known as the expected value. The Z-score is a measure of how far away one is from the mean in units of the standard deviation. A Z-score of +1.0 indicates a performance 1 standard deviation above the mean. A Z-score of 0-.5 indicates a performance one half a standard deviation below the expected value. A person who performs above the mean on some tasks and below on others will have an aggregate Z-score equivalent to a person who performs the mean on all tasks (whose performance is 0, neither above nor below the mean). Summing Z-scores therefore makes some sense as a way to aggregate performance.

In my professional life, I’m a Professor, and one of the things I’m forced to do is grade students on exams.

The university doesn’t pay me to teach, they pay me to grade — Ian

This sounds a bit like a much more famous quote…

I don’t pay prostitutes for sex, I pay them to leave — Charlie Sheen

Comedy break over. My classes typically have several exams. Do I sum the exam scores? Of course not! Some exams are more difficult (have lower means) than others. Scoring 80% on a hard exam should be worth more than on an easy exam. As a result, I calculate individual performances as Z-scores and the aggregate performance as the sum of the Z-scores. Lemon-squeezy.

One issue with Z-scores is that there’s an implicit assumption that the underlying data is normally distributed. Performance distributions are generally not normal. They tend to be extreme value distributions (there is a minimum possible lap time on one side but all manner of suckage on the other). Does this invalidate the use of Z-scores? Not necessarily. However, it creates an internal weighting system that you might want to re-scale similarly to what is done to turn ranks into points. Again, as the creator of your ranking system, you’re allowed to do whatever you like.

To turn Z-scores into 100-point final grades, I end up doing something like 84 + 3.5*sumZ. The actual offset (84) and scale (3.5) are different with every class of students, and sometimes students end up with over 100 points. After I compute the numeric grade, I have a discussion with the teaching assistant and we may round up a few numbers if they are close to the borders. Such decisions depend on “extra credit”. Now you know how the sausage is made in my house. Also, I’m 100% transparent about it with the students.

Fastest driver?

So how am I going to find the overall fastest driver? You’ll have to come back to the next post to find out.

Weirdly, not that popular

YSAR reader “radish” recently wrote a comment that my office must be popular with students and that he would visit often. But weirdly, my office sim rigs are not that popular. I’ll attempt to explain by putting students into 6 categories.

Type 1: lazy

There are a good number of students that are simply too lazy to make the trip to my office. The building is on the outskirts of campus. It’s an easy bike ride, but if you don’t have a bike, you have to take an infrequent bus or walk 0.5 mile. These students clearly aren’t very enthusiastic about cars, driving, or racing. They are in class because it fits their schedule and probably because they follow F1.

Given a choice between an SUV and a Miata, they would choose the SUV.

Type 2: scared

The #1 problem with students in general, is that they are scared to look foolish in front of their peers. The classroom would be a much more interesting place if students would get over this useless fear. But that’s not the reality we live in. Students are scared to put themselves in the spotlight. The fear of driving poorly is well-justified. I can pretty much guaranty that they will suck at it. But I can also say they will improve steadily if they practice.

Given a choice between autocrossing and washing their car, they would choose washing.

Type 3: one and done

Most of the students who come to my office drive just once. The first session always involves a lot of crashing and spinning. It’s not as easy as it looks. While I’m pretty sure everyone has a good time, it’s also a humbling experience. To come back for a second time, you have to be more than a casual enthusiast.

Given a choice between a sedan and a sportscar, they would choose the sedan. But a sporty sedan.

Type 4: twice not nice

The first time was hard, but surely the next time will be a lot better…

Sadly, it doesn’t always work out that way. Drivers who are slower the second time generally don’t come back again. It’s especially frustrating for car enthusiasts who think they know a lot about cars. There’s nothing like an objective benchmark lap time to say “you suck at racing”.

Given a choice between a sedan and a sportscar, they would choose the sportscar. They might even take it to an autocross or track day, but not very often.

Type 5: racers

There are a few students who show up regularly. Generally, these students have concrete goals they are trying to achieve. This usually takes the form of beating their personal best lap or climbing from one tier to the next. Even though the thresholds for each level are set arbitrarily, crossing each one feels like an important achievement.

Given a choice between a track day and date, they choose the track day, and try (stupidly) to turn it into a date.

 

Note that if you want to try your hand at this benchmark, you have to follow some strict rules. Use the default setup. Don’t change tire compound, tire pressures, fuel load, camber, etc. Set the weather to the default too (26°C, no wind). Turn off ABS, traction control, stability control, tire wear, and fuel consumption. No students have yet reached Master level, but a few have reached Expert.

Type 6: drivers

Every once in a while, a student will come with the goal of “practice”. That is, they don’t have a specific lap time they are trying to achieve, but rather a drill or technique they want to work on (e.g 3rd gear no brakes, trail-braking, drifting).

Given a choice between competing and studying, they choose studying.

Updating the office sim rigs

I made some changes to the sim rigs at my office. Like racecars, sim rigs are never really “finished” but I feel like these are approaching their final forms. The “Race Rig” is meant to feel like an old-school racecar like a Formula Ford or Spec Miata. The low, reclined, aluminum racing seat and sequential shifter add to the theme. The “Rally Rig” is more like a standard car, and the powered seat adjusters certainly give that feel. The shifter and handbrake are in a more rally-esque position.

Race Rig

  • 15-series aluminum profile construction of my own design (and re-design)
  • Fanatec CSL DD wheel base (8 Nm)
  • Fanatec CSL P1 V2 wheel
  • Fanatec CSL LC pedals
  • Generic sequential shifter
  • Generic hand brake
  • JEGS aluminum racing seat on manual slider
  • Computer: Intel i5-9400F CPU, 2080 Super GPU
  • 2560×1080 curved monitor

 

Rally Rig

  • Wooden construction (thanks again Gary)
  • Thrustmaster TS-PC wheel base
  • Thrustmaster Ferrari wheel
  • Thrustmaster T-LCM pedals (modded with skateboard bushings)
  • Thrustmaster TH8S shifter
  • PXN handbrake
  • Ford Mustang seat with powered adjusters
  • Computer: AMD 5500 CPU, RTX2060 GPU
  • 1920×1080 curve monitor

How do these get used?

I teach a class on High Performance Driving at UC Davis. Students in the class come to my office on the weekends to learn and play. The class is changing next year from a lecture to a lab. We’ll be doing experiments!

Racer’s Sim Rig

I have 2 sim rigs in my office so that students can drive them. But I want one at home too. I’m developing new tracks and I want to be able to test them without having to go to my office. So I decided to build a new sim rig. I’ve seen a lot of cool looking extruded aluminum designs and thought I’d like to try that. Here are the details of the build.

  • Wheel: Cammus C5. This is a really interesting direct drive wheel. As you can see, it looks really strange. Where’s the motor? The motor is in the wheel hub itself. Two prongs stick out of it for mounting. The little wedge you see in the picture is the desk mount adapter, which I’m not using as a desk mount, but as a way to change the angle of the wheel. The wheel is just $249. There is no tax, but shipping is $80 and the mount is another $30.
  • Pedals: The Fanatec CSL DD (8nm) is priced very aggressively in a ready-to-race set (base, wheel, pedals). They basically throw in their $80 base-model, 2-pedal product for free. For $140, you can get a kit that adds a 3rd pedal with a load cell for the brake. Fanatec charges tax and shipping.
  • Seat: I have a Kirkey 55150 hanging around my house as well as a seat mount. This was designed to fit my Z3, but I decided I’m retired from timed events, so I harvested this for the sim rig. $FREE.
  • Extrusions: I got my extrusions from tnutz.com. I came up with a lot of different designs and this was not what I originally planned. This design has 3 cross members. There are 2 under the seat and one for the pedals. The pedals are canted forward to fit better with the pseudo-formula driving position. There’s about $150 of aluminum and fasteners.
  • Missing
    • Monitor: Right now, I don’t have a monitor mount. The uprights are 24″ tall, which is about 5″ higher than they need to be. It will still easily slide under a desk or table. Or maybe I’ll build a monitor stand like I did for my office.
    • Computer: One of the nice things about Assetto Corsa is that it’s 10 years old and was designed for slower hardware. I’m not sure if I’ll use one of my old desktops or my new laptop.
    • Shifter: The interplay between shifter and clutch isn’t really replicated in any game anywhere. I’m fine using paddle shifters.
    • Handbrake: I have a handbrake, but it’s not very authentic. I don’t know if I’ll add one or not. I feel like people who rely on a handbrake are cheaters who don’t know how to imbalance a car or dummies who don’t know how to tune one.

Sitting in the cockpit reminds me of driving #581. This was a Miata I raced for several years. The seat was a Kirkey 55150 bolted straight to the floor. Maybe I need to put some bars on the side so I get that feeling of climbing over a roll cage.

Aluminum vs. Wood

My previous sim rigs were constructed from spare 2x4s and plywood held together with nuts and bolts picked up off the ground at Pick-n-Pull. I like wood. It’s robust, cheap, and simple to work with.

Aluminum sucks. Seriously. Those little fasteners are not fun to work with and aligning everything perfectly takes more time than you might expect. While the finished product looks better than wood, I don’t think it’s any better.

The only reason I can think to use aluminum instead of wood is to impress other people. Which is why I’m rebuilding one of my office rigs with aluminum. Yes, despite how much I prefer working with wood, I’m going to build another aluminum extrusion rig in my office just because it will look cool. Normally, I don’t give a rat’s ass how something looks. I just want it to perform. For a novice sim racer, part of performance is how the rig appears. If it looks more professional, they will feel that the experience is more valuable.

Trackcrafting 101

I spent a good 10 years obsessed with driving real race cars on real race tracks. During that time, I was never really a car enthusiast.  I guess that explains why my racecar was a Toyota Yaris. As a driving instructor, I’ve had the opportunity to drive a lot of cars on track, and I can tell you that I’ve had just as much fun in a Kia Soul as a BMW E46 M3. Sure, the M3 is the better car, but driving the limit is fun not matter what car you’re in. Another revelation is that if you have a good sim rig, driving in the virtual world is 95% as good as the real world with much less expense, danger, and time.

One of my favorite driving activities, both in the real and simulated world, is driving new tracks. Assetto Corsa has hundreds of free tracks built by the community, and this provides immense value. I love the idea of contributing to the ecosystem by making fantasy rally stages and bringing real race tracks into the virtual world. One way of doing this is with Race Track Builder. I bought this a couple years ago, but haven’t really had the time to explore it. In the last couple days, I decided to focus my attention on it.

The documentation for RTB is pretty thin, and you have to search all over the Internet for various guides. Whenever I start a new project, I like to gather the resources and write my own guide. That’s basically how YSAR started. So I’ve taken that strategy again and am writing a tutorial for turning race track imagination into race track reality. Well, virtual reality anyway.

Here’s the first version of the document: Trackcrafting 101. This features a “hello world” for Race Track Builder and Assetto Corsa. The first project is a simple rally stage that shouldn’t take more than an hour to complete.

I plan to update the guide with increasingly complex projects. Here are some project ideas.

  • New York Safety Track – NYST is one of my favorite tracks in the real world. It doesn’t have much in the way of buildings or other objects, so it should be relatively simple to model. There is only 1 configuration, but the track can be run in both directions.
  • Hoopa Hillclimb – Apart from Pikes Peak, there aren’t that many famous hillclimbs in the US. Not too far from me, the Redwood Sports Car Club has been running the Hoopa Hillclimb since at least the 1980s. I think it would be fun to visit the location and build the track. There are several other hillclimbs in the Pacific Northwest that would offer similar visit/model opportunities.
  • Walker Ridge Road – The hello world project is based on this road. The whole area is filled with some really twisty dirt roads that would make great rally stages.
  • Pineview Run – This is my brother’s local track. I’ve been to it a few times. They just recently added an extension. This would be a complex project as there are multiple configurations and objects.
  • Vaca Valley Raceway – This extinct track used to be just down the road from me. It was built for rFactor many years ago, but there is no modern rendition. The track is a mixture of drag strip, oval, and road course. I think it would be fun to bring it back from the dead.

I am just getting started with this hobby, so my efforts will be crude for a while. That said, if you have some suggestions of locations to model, I’d love to hear them.

GT7 Noob

My wife blames my brother for a lot of things, most notably, getting me into car racing. It’s an expensive, time-consuming, attention-consuming hobby that is often more frustrating than it is fun. The car racing hobby also spawned my interest in sim racing and coaching, which are further distractions. So what’s Mario’s next bad influence? He has convinced me I have to play Gran Turismo.

Gran Turismo

After a couple decades of pestering, I finally decided to make the investment and play Gran Turismo. Why investment? Because I’ve never owned a PlayStation. To make this happen, I had to buy stuff.

  • Used PS4 on Craigslist $120
  • Gran Turismo 7 $60
  • Digital audio converter $15 and headphones $20
  • Thrustmaster T3PA pedals $130

Why did I buy pedals? Because you can’t mix & match wheels and pedals on the PS4. The pedals connect to the wheel, and the wheel connects to the PS4. While I have a couple extra sets of pedals, they aren’t part of the Thrustmaster ecosystem. At the moment, I have 2 spare wheels: TX and T150. The TX is an okay wheel, but works with Xbox, not PS4. The T150 is hunk of dog shit masquerading as a steering wheel. That’s what I have, so that’s what I’m using. Pairing the T150 and T3PA spring-based pedals gives me a typical gaming experience, which I figure will be an interesting counterpoint to my usual, expensive, snobbish high-end gear. Wow, adding that up, I just spent $345 to play GT7. It better be good.

What is GT7?

So what exactly is Gran Turismo 7? I identify 4 main activities.

  1. Education – From driving instruction to world history, there’s actually much to learn about cars, driving, and tuning.
  2. Racing – You earn money and sometimes cars by winning races. This is the main source of income in the game.
  3. Collecting – You can also earn money by collecting specific sets of cars. And you can spend a lot of money buying cars.
  4. Customizing – There are lots of performance and cosmetic parts to personalize each of your vehicles to your personal taste.

Education

Education is a surprisingly strong part of the game. I’m not a car historian, but the people who wrote GT7 are. Every manufacturer has a museum where you can learn about their company and cars. There’s even a world timeline that syncs up manufacturer events with world events.

GT7 sometimes requires you to prove your driving skill by acquiring licenses. Each license test helps you improve your driving. I think this part of the game is pretty well done.

On the tuning side, GT7 does an OK job of showing you how much different parts improve the performance of your vehicle. It’s not always accurate. For example, they tell you that improving your brakes will shorten your stopping distances. They even tell you to make sure you upgrade brakes when you buy dirt tires…

Racing

The racing aspect of GT7 is mostly laughable. There are no penalties for cutting the course or for shoving other drivers off the road. This isn’t what racing looks like.

Driving

My first drive felt awful. It felt like I was playing an arcade game. There was no perceptible force feedback and the pedals were backwards. I scoured the Internet for advice and figured out some important stuff.

  • The mode switch changes from right foot to left foot. Why was the T150 set to left foot? No idea. Not that I have a problem with driving left-footed, as I trained myself to do that when I was injured. Anyway, nice to know I can go back and forth.
  • It seems like you should be able to adjust the FFB settings from the main menu, but you can’t. Wheel FFB settings can only be set after you enter an event. The settings are remembered from one event to the next, so it’s just a little confusing, not arduous.
  • There are 3 settings that  change how the wheel feels.
    • Controller (yes, the hand controller settings affect the wheel)
    • Maximum torque
    • Sensitivity

After messing around with the settings, I got the wheel to be a little more responsive. Don’t get too excited, because it was still awful: horrible, hand-numbing, head-shaking, do-people-actually-pay-for-this-shit, awful. There is no sensation of oversteer. There is also no lift-oversteer. I don’t know if these are problems with the wheel or that the physics are fundamentally broken. There is some sensation of understeer, however, and a recurring thought was that they should change the tagline to “the understeer simulator”.

Circuits

GT7 has 38 locations, sometimes with multiple layouts or tracks. In addition to classic tarmac circuits like Spa or Laguna Seca, they also have some dirt tracks and fantasy locations. It’s not a lot of tracks compared to something like Assetto Corsa, but it’s good enough. To drive the circuits, you must unlock them by playing through the main campaign of the game. I haven’t unlocked any dirt tracks as of this writing.

Car Collecting

It’s fun perusing the used car lot and the new car showrooms. It’s also fun learning about the various cars as you acquire them. Collecting cars is definitely one of the high points of the game. I wish there were more cars that I was interested in (older, shittier). Looking over the full list of cars online, I’m interested in 42 of the 491 cars.

Customizing

The best part of GT7 is customizing your cars. I feel like I could spend all day doing this. Now that I think about it, I just spent the last 4 hours playing GT7, and most of that wasn’t driving. I purchased an original GTI, set it up as a rally car, and took pictures in Oregon. WTF. Who am I anymore?

Summary

I think GT7 is a really fun game, and I’ve only scratched the surface. The attention to detail shows everywhere except for the driving/racing, which sucks. Does driving have to be realistic to be fun? For me, the answer has always been an emphatic yes. What’s the point of sim racing if not to improve your real-life skills? But do I require authenticity in all the games I play? Absolutely not. One of my favorite games is Valheim, and I’m certainly not training for a Viking-inspired afterlife. At the end of the day, I’m gaining a new appreciation for cars that I didn’t have before. My wife will not be pleased.